“The entire process is handmade which makes the papad thicker than industry standards. The brand uses raw ingredients like urad dal (black gram), moong (green gram), salt, black pepper, cumin seeds and asafoetida. The trust and loyalty between them run so deep that only a virtual handshake was done to guard the recipe forever. These two employees have been working for the brand for over two decades now. It is so sacred that only two women outside the family know the lentil-flour based recipe that produces an authentic Sindhi flavour. The brand uses a century-old recipe of papad that was safely passed down from one generation to another. Her close-guarded secret recipe laid the foundation of Deepak – The Sindhi Store,” Jaidev, Sita’s youngest son and owner of the brand, tells The Better India. It managed to impress not only the locals but also Indians living abroad. But my mother’s exceptional papad-making skills knew no bounds. “The intention was to have an additional source of income and never make a full-fledged business from something that was restricted to the domestic sphere. While the men of the house opened an essentials store, Sita Parwani, wife of Bherumal, unleashed her culinary skills of papad-making alongside acing the domestic role of being a wife and a mother. Sita Parwani, and her husband, Bherumal Parwani However, the Parwanis moved around, living in Jodhpur and Bombay (now Mumbai), before eventually settling in Pune, where Sindhis formed a small ghetto. Scores of Sindhis settled in Maharashtra’s Ulhasnagar district, which is now known as the epicentre of manufacturing Sindhi papads. The Parwanis had a reputation of being one of the best Ayurvedic hakims in the region and in the Sindhi community before their lives were overturned due to an event that was marked by bloodshed and psychological trauma. This is exactly how the Parwani family from Hyderabad, Pakistan, established a trusted brand of papad in the aftermath of the Partition. What do you do when your entire family is coerced into uprooting their lives, leaving behind all their assets and settling in a newly formed country that is now supposedly your home? You start small, bank on your skills and work relentlessly till you form a new identity and achieve a stable livelihood.
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